September 21th, 2002 - L'Anse
Aux Meadows, St. Anthony This was one of my favorite stops of the
trip. The "living museum" nature of the Viking
sodhouses was fascinating and romantic. Of course, I also
got a sense of the hardships of life for the Vikings who
were there 1000 years ago, but still, walking into those
sodhouses today felt like walking into the pages of a
romance novel!
Our original plan was to
moor near L'Anse Aux Meadows, on the north tip of
Newfoundland, but unexpected bad weather sprung up,
making it too dangerous for the Zodiac rafts to land
safely, so our expedition leaders decided on an alternate
plan: The Polar Star would reverse course and head for a
sheltered cove on the southern edge of a local peninsula,
and we'd disembark at St. Anthony (pronounced "Snat
Nee"), and then take a bus to L'Anse Aux Meadows.
Here's a picture of the rough seas, with the rusting hulk
of a wreck in the distance. It was a good reminder that
we didn't want to end up like they did!
 The main purpose of the L'Anse Aux Meadows
site is to preserve and study the ruins of a Viking
village that stood there a thousand years ago. These
days, all that can really be seen of it are some grassy
mounds showing the outlines of various buildings. Our
guides though were happy to take us around each spot at
the site, and describe its significance.
 Of much more romantic interest, was the
rebuilt Viking settlement here, where some buildings were
painstakingly crafted to original Viking specifications,
up to and including having people inside dressed in
Viking attire, cooking and weaving and offering us a
place by the hearth, while they would chat with us about
the lifestyle.
There were *some* differences between
original and modern Viking living though. In the original
buildings, heating and ventilation were always a problem,
so the buildings would usually be filled with smoke,
resulting in most of the Vikings there dying young
(average life expectancy was about 35!). These days,
there was a carefully camouflaged gas burner keeping the
fire live, and when I looked closely, I could see a fire
extinguisher or two being hidden among the furs!
 I really liked the feel of the settlement
though. Stepping into one of the buildings, felt like
stepping into the pages of a romance novel. Good-looking
long-haired Vikings, tempting furs, a warm fire... I wish
I could have stayed there longer! <grin>
The Meeting of Two Worlds
As I show my pictures
around to my friends, images of this particular sculpture
tend to evoke the most, "Wow, what's *that*???"
reactions. Everyone seems to see
something different. Some just find it aesthetically
pleasing, without seeing anything in particular. Others
see the wings of an angel, or a magnificent piece of
driftwood, or (like me) towering white-capped waves, and
so on. What this is, is a sculpture called "The
Meeting of Two Worlds," which was specially
commissioned for this UNESCO site near the Viking
villages. Just recently unveiled in July 2002, it was
created in two parts, by two different sculptors: One a
Newfoundland immigrant named Luben Boykov, and one a
Swedish sculptor named Richard Brixel. It's meant to
symbolize the course of human migration, going all the
way back to the origin of our species in the Old World of
what is now Africa, Europe and Asia. Many thousands of
years ago, our ancestors migrated eastward across Asia,
some even across what is now called the Bering Strait, to
the Americas. Then they gradually moved and settled
southward across North and South America. They populated
those continents with pretty much separate cultures from
what was left behind in the "Old World," until
one thousand years ago, when Vikings such as Eric the Red
sailed west over the Atlantic, to meet their long-lost
millenial cousins in North America. So this sculpture
represents that meeting of those two separated and then
reunited worlds. For more information about it, you may
wish to read the information at the Parks Canada site.
Norstead
And as if all the above wasn't enough for one day, we
then went out to Norstead, which was a re-creation of
what a Viking port might have looked like. There were
several buildings, and many more locals in traditional
outfits who were demonstrating various old crafts.
I was particularly interested in the demonstration of
yarn-spinning. I'd read about it, but had never yet had
the opportunity to see the process with my own eyes. I
*am* in possession of a traditional wooden spinning wheel
from my mother though, and I guess I have delusions of
actually using it someday!
1. Combing the Wool |
2. Pulling the Wool into a long
"tail" |
3. Twisting the wool into yarn |
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4. Spinning the spool and using
the weight and the turning to spin the wool
tighter |
5. The spun string |
6. Wrapping the finished string
around the spool |
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 The day capped off with a
definite Viking theme! Here's Laurie Dexter, our
expedition leader, picking us up in a Zodiac raft while
wearing his "faux-Viking" headgear. And then
later that night, *many* of the passengers and crew got
into the spirit, so it was "Vikings, Vikings,
everywhere!"
To see more pictures of our adventures on this day,
please click here and
here.
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